Ticked a big one of today. It was the North West Face of the biggest peak in the area and has been on my mind since first seeing it 12 days ago. The face was clearly holding the best snow in the area and was one of the few spined up faces we have seen this trip. The hang up was that it spilled into some big open cracks. They were far down the outrun and after many looks at the face we had determined that it would take a major slide to make it to the cracks.
We have been hammering the snow-pack hard the last couple of days and have seen no activity. Our multiple pits also concluded we had a bomber snow pack. With a big storm in the forecast I knew today may be my only chance to get this line before the stability changed. The other factor was heating. I had to traverse a west face with multiple cornices looming over head. My plan was to start the traverse/hike early in the day when everything was locked in and crusted over.
I left my final island of safety at 11:30AM and the race was on. At exactly at 2:00PM I was standing on top of my line just as the first rays of light hit the face. By 3:30PM I was back to my safe spot. The whole process took about 20 well thought out steps but with proper planning I was able to mitigate my hazards.
It was a huge physical test because I was racing the clock and there was no real safe spots to rest so I was forced sprint most of the hike. I was exposed for over 4 hours and the physical and mental test was like nothing I have felt before.
The anti was way up today and I have never felt that small in my life. It was great to have Tom backing me up today and reconfirming that I was not crossing the line of good judgement.

The was the first good look I got at the face. I started my hike from the saddle traversing the sun/shadow ridge and on up to the lookers right peak.

Earlier in the day Johan, photog Dan Milner and Jonaven left do to fears of being stuck out for another 10 day storm and to restock camp.

Enjoying the view of Mount Fairweather and taking a breather before setting out for an afternoon of exposure.





Every new post from Alaska is better than the last.
Comment by samh May 4, 2009 @ 5:03 pm
sick sick sick sick sick sick sick! oh man, did i mention that is SICK?! thanks again for the great photos.
Comment by Allgood May 5, 2009 @ 12:04 am
Jeremy, Epic story. Epic pics. All together inspiring. Can’t wait to check out Mount McConckey!!! Great talking with you at the memorial. Way to pull off the trip!
Nate
Comment by nate nash May 6, 2009 @ 8:44 pm
Understand it took a hella lot o’ work to get there, but seems to me you’re one of the chosen to get to go to a place like that; so beautiful & so awe inspiring. Thanks for giving the rest of us a peek!
Comment by cheri May 7, 2009 @ 12:39 am
awesome
Comment by ION May 8, 2009 @ 7:43 pm
dude! this looks like heaven. the kind of place and trip i dream about
Comment by James.D May 10, 2009 @ 4:26 am