Xavier has been showing me pictures of this one line for a few months and it was finally in form.  In order to hit it we would have to hike 6600 vertical feet before the sun heated up the face.  Our big hazard at this time of year is heating.  On clear nights the snow freezes solid and as the day warms up the snow heats up and by the afternoon avalanches start pouring down the mountains.  Because of this we do our hiking in the dark and are riding at first light. This was especially important because to hit this line we would have to hike over major exposure for over an hour to get to the peak.

To be safe we started our hike just after dinner at 10pm.  With no moon and thick woods to start we were lost instantly.  I raging river was our savior and it allowed us to hop on the rocks, gain altitude and get above treeline.  Once on the snow hours melted together and hardly a word was spoken between us.   On the glacier we roped, turned our headlamps on high and weaved our way to the base of the line.  Twilight hit just as we reached the first bergchrund and from there the race was on.

I had been pacing myself all night but once I got on the final pitch over the exposure I gave it everything I had so I could limit my time on the hanging snowfield.  The conditions were perfect, the snow was still cold but soft and just after 8 AM we dropped into our line.

You can see the peak to the upper left

You can see the peak to the upper left

The first of many obstacles. You do not want to get your feet wet at the start of a 10 hour hike.

Edmands dealing with the the first of many obstacles. You do not want to get your feet wet at the start of a 10 hour hike.

Xavier approaching the bergschrund as the first signs of light show on the horizon.

Xavier approaching the bergschrund as the first signs of light show on the horizon.

time

time

Xavier ten hours in and minutes to the top.

Xavier ten hours in and minutes to the top.

Thinking of you Shane

Thinking of you Shane. I dropped in here and worked my way left. To the right is a perfect ski base. Our car is at the bottom of the valley.

The prize. Photo Tero Repo

The prize. Photo Tero Repo

Off the ice and ready to party the 3k of rolling corn snow to the valley belllow.

Off the ice and ready to party the 3k of rolling corn snow to the valley bellow. 10 hours to the top. 10 minutes to the bottom.

tired

12 hours of charging later. Xavier finally takes a rest. It is amazing going from the high and cold mountain tops were the high elevation makes breathing hard and riding to the valley floors were the air is thick, smell of flowers and feel like summer.