It has been two years since I have paddled out with out a wetsuit so after one of the longest winters of my life it was time thaw out on  to some tropical right hand point breaks.  No 30 item check lists to get out the door. . Boardshorts, sunscreen and surfboard.  No crevasses, cornices, seracs or avalanches looming over head or under foot.  Just rashes, sunburns, and jelly fish to worry about.  Mexico has filled most of my spring and fall calender since graduating high school.   My tent is traded in for a beach house now and I am no longer getting by on two hundred dollars a month down there but it is still the closest and cheapest warm water surf spot from my house.

“There is this pounding, slamming sense of glory while sailing along in that white crash of water.  The water is alive with sparkle, and the surfboard makes a hissing sound like a thousand yards of tearing silk.  You are for a moment completely unplugged from life and complete unto yourself.” Phil Edwards-Pipeline Pioneer

My first morning in the tropics